For the label’s Spring/Summer 2023 runway show, “MOTION,” Matthew M Williams‘ 1017 ALYX 9SM has decoded the ideals and norms surrounding streetwear.
Hundreds of onlookers sat front row as Williams’ models and muses awkwardly strutted along the tiled path — notably with the show is standout moment on their feet, the new Nike x MMW 005 mule — which took over a disused swimming pool on the outskirts of Milan.
The latest addition to Williams’ Nike Zoom series, seen in black and light gray, takes inspiration from his brand’s now-signature footwear while also injecting references to Nike thanks to the co-branding on the vamp and extended heel at the back, which act as a nod to previous MMW designs. With 1017 ALYX 9SM’s reworking of the Mono Boot, footwear continued to evolve, with an expanded range of experimental colors and high-tech yet artisanal treatments.
The all-new ARIA sneaker, which comes in low and high versions, combines know-how from the Mono’s development, creating a shoe sole that is big, bulky, and unavoidable, and pairing it with a breathable, lightweight upper.
Williams presented a co-ed offering of decoded and deconstructed streetwear tinged with the brand’s usual luxe flair for the collection. Layering was important, but the brand had developed technical structures and weave knits that were almost weightless, billowing in the light breeze as the models walked.
Many dresses are made from bathing suit technical stretch fabrics, which add comfort and flexibility in hot climates, while trousers — especially wide-legs — are unisex, as evidenced by their shapeless, falling silhouette that sits atop the Moon Boot.
Williams’ work at Givenchy clearly influenced the darker side of the SS23 “MOTION” collection, which featured baggy leather trousers paired with Rick Owens-esque mesh knits or hooded capes, while leather biker jackets informed a white elongated leather coat, while Williams’ work at Givenchy clearly influenced the darker side of the SS23 “MOTION” collection, showcasing baggy leather trousers paired with Rick Owens-esque mesh knits or hooded A new peace sign logo appeared to harmonize the brand’s streetwear undertones, while sleeveless vests with snap buttons and zipped hardware, distressed denim Canadian tuxedos, and a neon yellow faux feather explored the brand’s diversity.
The new ALBA and LILA bags complete 1017 ALYX 9SM’s SS23 collection. The first is available in “Plain,” “Fluo,” and “Shiny” leather, with the classic ALYX Micro Buckle clasp closure and custom metal hardware designed specifically for this bag. The Lila bag, on the other hand, is reminiscent of origami, adapting its shape as the wearer interacts with it.
