Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen’s FW23: From Anatomy to Asymmetry on the Runway

Naomi Campbell, resplendent in a form-fitting corset jumpsuit, took center stage, setting the tone for a collection that delves deep into the DNA of Alexander McQueen, tracing its roots back to 1992. Entitled “Anatomy,” FW23 is an exploration of the fundamental pillars of fashion, dissecting the human form from within and transmuting its desires into meticulously crafted silhouettes.

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Venturing into the whimsically dark realms of McQueen’s design lexicon, the runway showcased a breathtaking array of tailoring. Classic white shirts and black ties seamlessly melded into tailored strapless dresses, while pinstripes folded into upside-down lapels, creating a controlled tension between strictness and play.

This dance of contrasts extended to fabrics and forms, with leather intertwining with cashmere, and robust angular shoulders meeting delicately narrowed waistlines. Sarah Burton, the creative force behind the collection, eloquently summarized it as an exploration of “human anatomy, the anatomy of clothing, the anatomy of flowers. An exploration of beauty and power through tailoring and tailoring fabrics, and a focus on cut, proportion, and silhouette.”

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Within the collection, echoes of anatomical Renaissance paintings resonated as garments underwent dissection. Layers of knitwear were artfully peeled back, and fabric was strategically slashed at the hips, contorted into uncharted territories. References to this artistic era were transformed into asymmetric frills and fiery red motifs reminiscent of giant orchids, which, though intriguing, could easily be mistaken for something with a touch more macabre charm.


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