Fendi‘s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is a delightful mix of textures, prints, and motifs, with watercolor splashes mixed in with fringed, distressed denim, and animal prints for a collection that kicked off day two of Milan Fashion Week in style.
It is clear that Silvia Venturini Fendi has been listening in on Kim Jones‘ Fendi womenswear — he, too, referenced nature and animals for Fendi’s Spring 2022 collection — and now it is menswear’s turn to delve into the realm of contrasts and juxtapositions. “It’s about a balance of decoration and simplicity. An ageless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time,” explains Miss. Fendi.
The collection is inspired by the free time that many people seek, with colors ranging from melon and indigo to ochre, putty, cornflower blue, and silver-gray. The use of cowhide continues the naturalistic references — here, on full denim sets, the iconic Baguette bag, and more — while weather patterns swirl on thermographic jacquard coats.
Distressed trompe l’oeil prints on robes and twill shirt jackets, elongated five-pocket jeans, Baguette bags, and shoppers all lean towards the otherworldly, while the signature Fendi monogram remained a staple part of the SS23 collection to bring the collection that required commerciality. However, this is not a bad move, as the motif has been seen on chunky loafers, neck-strap bags, and a new skate sneaker that is bejeweled in some places.
Fendi’s use of “ultrasound Selleria,” or simply bonded topstitching and leather patch pockets that created shadow-esque shapes on anoraks and raincoats, provided technical tropes as well. The lug-sole O’Lock buckle loafers and fringed denim or suede moccasins were paired with chambray shorts, high-cut jorts, baggy beach club-ready shorts, and more.
Watercolor motifs run throughout the collection, dappling warm tones on muted, exquisitely proportioned tailoring that defies convention. Take, for example, the overshirt: done up and without, Fendi would present a simple beige piece, but the warm earthy brown tones give the look a tinge of psychedelia, done in the house’s signature sophisticated way.