Y/Project

Glenn Martens Takes Paris by Storm with Y/Project’s SS24 Collection

Glenn Martens, the designer who once convinced Milan to brave the rain for his Diesel show, brought his unconventional charm to the Paris runway for Y/Project. In a city known for its elegance, Martens always manages to add a touch of chaos, and this time was no different.

As guests precariously ascended some rather questionable stairs to a partially constructed building (Paris Fashion Week seems to have a thing for building sites this year), it became evident that there were more attendees than available seats. But that’s the allure of Glenn Martens – people will go to great lengths to sneak into his shows.

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Y/Project’s SS24 collection made denim its centerpiece, a recurring theme for the brand. A standout piece was a colossal denim shawl with an oversized hood, reminiscent of stylish monks. Denim in various shades of pink, yellow, and gray appeared dyed and frayed. One pair of jeans took on a bunched and stiffened form, resembling delicate tulle. This denim magic extended to dresses and shirts, creating some of the collection’s standout looks.

Backstage, Martens couldn’t hide his enthusiasm. He revealed that the collection drew inspiration from the Gothic architecture of his hometown, Bruges. According to him, the exploding fabric represented “the pinnacles and the flying buttresses of Fleming Gothic architecture.” It all comes together when you consider that both Gothic architecture and Martens’ style are characterized by ornate decadence and over-the-top aesthetics.

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Martens also explained his affinity for denim, tracing it back to Bruges. He highlighted the city’s tallest Medieval tower, constructed from basic bricks – a stark contrast to the ornate stones used in England and France. Much like these basic materials turned into architectural marvels, Martens transforms everyday cotton and denim into his signature constructive twists.


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