Paco Rabanne

Julien Dossena’s Ode to Paco Rabanne: FW23

Paco Rabanne‘s FW23 collection made its debut, marking the first since the passing of the legendary founder and designer just last month. In a touching gesture, every guest found a personal tribute on their seat, courtesy of creative director Julien Dossena. It was a heartfelt nod to Monsieur Rabanne’s radical and utopian creativity, the kind that “changed our view of the world.”

As Saint-Preux’s evocative “Concerto pour une Voix” filled the air, it felt like an homage to the very essence of Paco Rabanne—a contemporary mind operating within the timeless framework of classical beauty.


Under Dossena’s guidance, Paco Rabanne remains a brand that revels in the spirit of women and modernity. The clothes themselves were a sensory delight. Models glided past, swathed in metallic and crystal embellishments, creating an enchanting spectacle. Early in the show, there was a clear focus on a modern interpretation of glamour, with glistening lurex knitwear and 90s-inspired sneakers taking center stage. The metallic harness detail on a floor-skimming, camel-toned coat was a subtle nod to Dossena’s exploration of grunge and fetish in the previous season.

Midway through the presentation, we were treated to a celebration of the historic friendship between Paco Rabanne and Salvador Dali. This celebration materialized in a capsule collection of panelled, maxi-length gowns adorned with some of Dali’s most iconic works, including “The Shades of Night Descending” and “Sun-Table.”


The show concluded on a fitting note, with a display of five exquisite creations plucked straight from the designer’s archive. Each chainmail mini dress served as a symbol of a different decade in Paco Rabanne’s innovative and ever-evolving vision.

It echoed his own words: “Each garment must express something. I try to make a garment that will make one woman appear strange; another that will make her very sophisticated; another that will make her modern; another aggressive; another erotic; and still another one… Each garment, for me, is a whole.”