Marcelo Burlon‘s ten-year anniversary of founding his eponymous label was commemorated this season. And, as we all know, this designer knows how to have a good time.
The show, which took place at Milan’s incredible Velodromo Vigorelli arena, featured a mix of models, friends of the brand, and even Burlon himself, all of whom walked to an appropriately techno-infused soundtrack – before becoming a designer, Burlon was a DJ and club kid – that opened with Ultra Naté’s Free and ended with a mix of Corona’s The Rhythm Of The Night – all of which are guaranteed 90s bangers.
The SS23 collection was described as “a circular feeling” in the show notes, and it felt like a full-circle moment – note the venue shape – with a collection that reimagined many of Burlon’s signature motifs and silhouettes from the previous decade.
Most notably, it was his signature wings motif that propelled him into the fashion world. Burlon updated his brand codes with the sense of maturity that a big birthday demands, while remaining playful.
Across baggy skater denim and an oversized suit layered in various pink hues, looks swayed from understated to bold, single-color creations alongside busy all-over print designs and heavy patchworking.
Toward the end, a series of tie-dye circular theme looks, with spiraling patterns draw us into a trance – in every sense of the word.
