In the mesmerizing world of Julien Dossena‘s SS24 collection for Rabanne, the runway is a time machine. Rabanne’s signature bejeweled armor adorned the models, each step accompanied by the purposeful sway of delicate metal fringes. Mirrorball dresses caught the spotlights and threw them back in a dazzling 360-degree dance. The show notes posed a question that lingered in the air: “How is it that the deep past also conjures the far-off future?”
Dossena, like a skilled pilot, loaded us into the Rabanne time machine and hit the accelerator. We were catapulted into a cosmic realm, fueled by Paco Rabanne’s revolutionary sci-fi designs. Here, the designer collected artifacts from the past, present, and future, creating ensembles that shimmered with intrigue. While some designers envision what a future society might wear, Rabanne blurs the lines entirely, leaving us to wonder if these are souvenirs from an entirely different dimension.
Fast forward to 2023, and Dossena’s SS24 collection continues to play with the familiar. The shapes are recognizable—sarouel pants, scarf tops, draped skirts, and gladiator boots—but there’s a sense of temporal and spatial distortion. The draping techniques draw inspiration from antique marble statuary, and loose gold threads materialize as moments of exquisite decay. Sandals are encrusted with what could be space dust, kicked up and solidified during cosmic travels, and basque waistlines coexist with slouched, 90s-inspired trousers. Eras, cultures, and genres collide, combine, and contort in a captivating fusion.
Among the standout pieces are tank tops featuring prints from “Nues,” a 1960s collaborative photographic series by Jean Clemmer and Paco Rabanne. These images depict nude women adorned in the designer’s elaborate aluminum and chainmail assemblages, a powerful exploration of art and fashion synergy.
For those eager to dive deeper into the Rabanne universe, there’s “club 57,” a dynamic partnership between Rabanne and Spotify. This collaboration shines a spotlight on the 50th anniversary of hip-hop, offering curated playlists, enlightening podcasts, and exclusive releases. As a fascinating fact, it’s worth noting that in the 1970s, Paco Rabanne founded “Black Sugar,” an art center and workshop for Hip-Hop and break musicians and dancers, located at 57 Boulevard de La Villette. This creative hub would later evolve into “Club 57,” hosting legendary artists like JoeyStarr, Kool Shen, and MC Solaar.