Anthony Vaccarello, the visionary behind Saint Laurent, continues his global fashion conquest with the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Following his captivating showcases in Paris and a Moroccan affair, Vaccarello now sets his sights on Berlin, taking over the iconic Neue Nationalgalerie, a masterpiece designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. This time, the atmosphere is far from the desert sands or Parisian chic; instead, it’s a bold and unapologetic declaration of Saint Laurent’s hardcore aesthetic for menswear.
The show in Berlin serves as a platform for Vaccarello to explore an evolved identity for Saint Laurent, bridging the gap between menswear and womenswear. Sharp tailoring takes center stage, but a closer look reveals a delightful contradiction—weightless structures that exude summer-ready vibes. Trousers rise to new heights and gracefully pleat down to the ankle, while shoulders adopt generous proportions or abandon their traditional shape altogether, paying homage to the House’s storied history.
Infused with contemporary touches befitting Berlin’s status as a Queer mecca, Vaccarello’s quintessential Saint Laurent tuxedo challenges conventions by embracing a satin tank top that delicately embraces the body. Traditional feminine couture materials, such as Mousseline de Soie, undergo manipulation, revealing their semi-transparent allure and blurring the boundaries between sensuality and formality.
Vaccarello’s work was destined to evolve within the framework of his signature Saint Laurent aesthetic, and the SS24 collection is undeniably breathtaking. The designer’s progression is evident as proportions amplify, with shoulders sculpted like marble slabs flanking the models’ heads, cinching into slender waists accentuated by slim belts. Attention is drawn to the trousers, high-waisted and transitioning from cigarette-skinny to billowing and bold.
Fabric selection mirrors the sculpted silhouettes, as Mousseline gracefully drapes over the skin, teasing voyeurism, sensuality, and refined elegance. Vaccarello introduced sarongs crafted from silk, knotted at the shoulder and cascading like feminine gowns, imbuing the collection with a softer touch. Off-the-shoulder moments exude glamour but sport jersey fabric, while silk wraps the body in opulence, exposing collarbones and a fresher, more refined identity. Subtle elements like white bow ties disrupt the norm, adding a twist of sophistication.
Footwear remains quintessentially Saint Laurent, with patent leather boots boasting slim silhouettes that shimmer with prestige. They serve as the backdrop, elevating a collection that is more romantic, relaxed, open, and progressive than ever before.
Five years into his tenure, Vaccarello has undoubtedly hit his stride. If there’s one takeaway from the SS24 show, it’s to wrap oneself in layers that inadvertently reveal enough to captivate the eye. In doing so, one effortlessly exudes the unmistakable Saint Laurent attitude—a quality that speaks for itself and continues to captivate House loyalists.
