In FW20, Julien Dossena, the creative director of Paco Rabanne, welcomed guests into the storied confines of Paris’ Conciergerie, the place where Marie Antoinette spent her final days. The collection that unfolded was a fascinating exploration of femininity, weaving together medieval silhouettes and intricate craftsmanship, as it transported clerical robes and Elizabethan ruffs from history’s pages into the modern realm of 2020.
It’s worth noting that Paco Rabanne has a celebrated history of pioneering space-age fashion. Even as the collection delved into historical references, Dossena paid homage to this futuristic vision. The brand’s iconic metal mesh found a new purpose, draping across models’ faces in high-fashion interpretations of chain-mail armor.
Meanwhile, laser-cut metallics showcased the intricacy of broderie anglaise, and floral-printed black velvet met studded bags and provocative latex gloves, embodying the delicate balance of light and darkness that Dossena aimed to capture.
Adding a touch of the future, iridescent fabrics and statement high-shine accessories injected a futuristic flair into the collection. With just over 40 carefully curated looks, Dossena’s emphasis rested firmly on “elaborate workmanship.” Some standout dresses within the collection could easily have graced the runway of a couture show.
This collection served as both a tribute to the vilified women of the past and a forward-looking proposition for the women of the future, rooted in strength, beauty, and complexity.
