Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton X Nicolas Ghesquière: Unpacking Our Top Picks

When we talk about fashion and the number of pieces that have walked the runways and numerous fashion shows around the world, there is an abundance of remarkable, stunning and transforming pieces that have not only inspired the new generations of designers but worked their way through the fast fashion businesses and into everyday fashion pieces, People who don’t even “care” about fashion are wearing colours, designs and fabrics that were chosen and first introduced on these runways and they have no idea. But we do and we appreciate its true beginning.

Creative directors flitted from house to house in an ever more rapid game of musical chairs; one walked so the other could run. In more recent times, you have Alessandro Michele, who led the designs for Gucci for seven years and was taken over by Sabato de Sarno later last year. We’ve also had Clare Waight Keller and Matthew Williams success with Givenchy for three years and are still yet to be replaced.

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This year marks the 10th anniversary of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s time as the creative director of women’s wear at Louis Vuitton. Although he took over in 2013, the first collection he released was a 2014 autumn/winter collection. Ghesquiere’s decade at Louis Vuitton has been described as a blast through time and a preoccupation with aesthetic time travel, bringing light to a postmodern mash-up. From references to gaming to royal fashion’s significance to credits for film designs, Ghesquiere has pulled inspiration from here, there and everywhere. They have absorbed a piece of everything and made pieces that tell a story about our whole societal evolution.

So in light of the 10th anniversary, we have decided to pick our favourite looks through the decade and explain why, out of the vast selection, we have chosen the specific look and why it’s brilliantly done even to this day. Call it fashion genius; we call it absolute timeless masterpieces.

Autumn/Winter 2014: The Beginning of It All

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Starting off strong with his debut, Nicolas designed a short a-line skirt silhouette that was new in comparison to his work at Balenciaga. It was a stunning surprise; be sure of that. We were gifted the same style in the spring and summer of 2015. Although he did add in some of his signatures from Balenciaga’s with a gorgeous military look from slimed jet black waisted legging tailored pants that were insanely flattering (still fashionable of course), a chunky belt and a beige jacket tucked in, this entire outfit is still a prevalent look for today.

Spring/Summer 2016: Anime Appreciation

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Nicolas Ghesquiere has been recognised for his interesting takes on wearable modern fashion in the digital world and this collection just embodied all of that. The inspiration behind this collection was Wong Kar-wai’s 2046 and the anime series Evangelion. The first look just completely represented those two worlds with the headpiece, pink leather biker jacket and midi skirt, which took on the complete role of warrior princess core.

Nicolas Ghesquiere’s pieces always speak to people and always give us a story and that’s what this entire collection did, it made us feel like we were in a new world while at the same time being extremely modern and stylish. It’s such an impressive fuse between futuristic, anime and modern streetwear.

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Spring/Summer 2018: Unforgettable

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Ghesquière’s mastery of the time-warp was undeniable. Embellished frock coats met boyish boxer shorts and full-body embroidered jackets that looked like they’d come straight out of the Queen Charlotte series, contrasting shapes, colours, textures and patterns truly had me blown away; they immediately left me wanting to dive through my boyfriend’s wardrobe and play dress up.
Another concept of bringing athleisure and loungewear that is very popular in designers’ fashion shows now, like Mui Mui’s 2024 embroidered pants, has filtered through to street fashion into filly shorts and bloomers that you can now pick up at your local Zara. While they aren’t quite as couture as these designers, they have made their way through, clearly demonstrating Ghequiere’s brilliance.

Autumn/Winter 2021: Iconic

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This was the year of the iconic collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Piero Fornasetti and let’s not forget the man himself, Nicolas Ghesquiere, as without his touch, this collaboration might not have ever happened and we wouldn’t have been blessed with these fabulous pieces that pay homage to the Greeks and Romans.

The collection was extremely fun and playful, showing different shapes and vibrant colours with a surreal tack on mid-century drawings. Taking something so rich in history and completely transforming it into something model and relevant to the time, from the gladiator sandals to the silver gladiator skirt. The collection was an interesting fuse of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s dualities; craft, technology, country constructions and street-level hippiness, which are all well adored by existing and inspiring fashionistas. You got to see both Piero and Nicolas in the pieces, making for such a successful collaboration.

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Spring/Summer 2022: Chandeliers

Models present creations by Louis Vuitton during the Women's Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week at the Louvre in Paris, on October 5, 2021. (Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP)
Models present creations by Louis Vuitton during the Women’s Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week at the Louvre in Paris, on October 5, 2021. (Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP)

The Nicolas Ghesquiere collection was an indiscriminately intricate romp through time, as always; it was everything we adored about him. It brought attention to the juxtaposition of strict, sharp tailors and everything we love about lace. 

The embellished panniered skirts embodied the beauty of a chandelier but also accentuated the parts that are dazzling about a woman. Multi-layered capes dragged on the floor through the show; it was truly beautiful and the season ahead was a whole new concept. Nicolas Ghesquiere decided to show us his take on modern masked balls.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to the top choices of a whole decade of looks, this was not the easiest, as Nicolas Ghesquiere’s unique take on fashion has brought history back to life and plays with the digital world that we all love and appreciate.


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