The inspiration for this Isabel Marant Pre-Spring 22 collection came from Peter Lindbergh’s photographs of Linda Evangelista on the beach in Normandy. “I was looking for something simple and easy, with a very ’90s vibe,” Marant explained over Zoom. Birgit Kos, the model who appears in the look book, even donned a Linda wig for the occasion.
It’s a more understated presentation than her last spring show in Paris, not devoid of color but also not drenched in Miami Beach pastels like her runway. A girly frill in the form of a patterned pouf-shoulder or a ruched jersey bodice punctuates the lineup here and there. The boyish attitude of products like a pinstripe shorts suit, a parachute nylon all-in-one, and a narrow-cut overcoat is the fashion news.
They’re the kind of clothes you’d see on the designer herself, as they’re streamlined and efficient. The 1990s were a watershed moment for Marant and her Generation X peers. “It’s all about having the proper wardrobe,” she explained. That narrow-shouldered coat most clearly qualifies.
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