PRONOUNCE, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou‘s blossoming imprint, explores the thread between East and West, all while reflecting on gender and fashion norms.
PRONOUNCE has established itself as a must-see brand, having been the first Chinese company selected to display at Pitti Uomo, obtaining seed money from the Isabella Blow Foundation, Li working directly under Kanye West for his brand YEEZY, and Zhou developing at Ermenegildo Zegna.
Indeed, PRONOUNCE delivered its Spring/Summer 2023 collection, dubbed “Whirlpool,” at the Institute of Contemporary Arts as part of London Fashion Week. A wearable men’s and women’s collection walked through the double doors of a huge room, with a strong emphasis on tailoring and the ’90s invading several looks.
Shorts, for example, were high on the thigh, sweaters had college undertones, and outfits — four-button blazers with shorts rather than pants — were schoolboyish, a popular trend this season. Circle motifs formed three-dimensional patterns on the breast of the blazer on the latter, which was replicated across several formalwear outfits, including a blanket, a white shirt, Harrington coats, and more.
Another major source of inspiration was old Chinese vinyl dolls. They wore miniature copies of the garments with which they were paired and cradled, while also being the center point for shorts, shirts, and sweaters using embroidery or eco-friendly printing techniques.
